Minus One

October 26, 2016, partly cloudy skies, winds ENE, moderate, temp 53

Left our dock headed south on ICW Dismal Swamp Canal bound for South Mills Lock. Passed Washington ditch at 0928. (There are a number of ditches leading outward from Lake Drummond, constructed through the years to help regulate water flow to and from the lake.) Passed into North Carolina at 1000 and proceeded through the South Mills Bridge to the South Mills Lock. Timed our arrival perfectly to enter the lock at the 1100 opening.

The lock master, who shall remained unnamed, was the same gentleman running the show last year. Dismal Swamp Canal locks are operated by U. S. Facilities, a private company contracted by the U. S. Corps of Engineers, the federal agency that has jurisdiction and responsibility for the canal. So the unnamed lock master is an employee of U. S. Facilities, as was the ever jovial and entertaining Robert at the Deep Creek Lock.

We remembered the South Mills guy from last year when we came through in April, headed north back to the Chesapeake. He was pleasant enough then, however during that visit, after explaining some aspect of the operation of the canal, he launched into a speech about the inefficiency of the Corps of Engineers vis-à-vis the canal, then went further afield to complain about the general inefficiency of government, which led to complaints about other societal problems and a strong declaration of blame for all this mess on “that nigger in the White House.”

That comment could not have more impact than if he had smacked us directly in the face. Mind you, this is a guy talking to two people he had never met – a guy representing the Corps of Engineers in a roundabout way.

We found a way to make a dignified retreat, not wishing to address such a bigoted comment. Past experience has taught me that directly confronting that kind of vile speech is not particularly useful. And you never know who is packing heat these days.

Fast forward to today. Same guy, same pleasant demeanor. He happily shared information about the nature of the water in Lake Drummond and the Dismal Swamp and Canal, water that is colored brown due to a high content of tannic acid, derived from the decay of many wetland plants including baldy cypress and black gum trees. The water will stain stuff, like the hull of a boat, and a few swims in it will color your skin a rich brown. Interestingly enough, although the water looks suspiciously like something that has passed through a mismanaged sewage plant, it is actually quite clean and, in the early days of exploration of this area, was prized as drinking water, water that would keep for long periods in wooden barrels.

So lock master II purred on about the canal water, and damn it, he could not help himself. He somehow was able to deftly transition into instructions about how one could stain one’s skin to that rich dark brown ‘Mexican color’ then get yourself down to the nearest “relief office” to apply for free health care, welfare and child support, “Because they always give free stuff to Mexicans.”

I can’t wait to see what he has in store for us in April when we come back through.

So, after that nonsense we made our way through the lock and into Turners Cut, a short canal connecting the Dismal Swamp Canal to the Pasquotank River, which will lead us to Elizabeth City and beyond.

We anchored in the Pasquotank River at Goat Island, famous for a feral, three legged goat named ‘Minus One’, who lives there.  

Good night.