Wednesday

Disaster

December 1, 2015, 0345. Wind calm, variable NE

A waning gibbous moon hangs in the southern sky.

Flicka is safely tied to a dock at the Palm Coast Marina in Palm Coast, Florida, about fifty miles south of St. Augustine, Florida.

In this writing, I chronicle events of the last few days, at once horrifying, uplifting and inspiring. We have endured much physical and emotional pain but have also received at least as much kindness and encouragement from strangers. 

This story starts on November 28. The night before we were anchored near Fort Matanzas, built by the Spanish in 1742 to guard the southern approach to St. Augustine. We had come there by first running aground at the entrance to the Matanzas River where constant shoaling shifts the channel around. One has to ‘feel’ one’s way in and apparently we weren’t ‘feeling’ so well, because we ran right upon the sand bar.

Luckily the tide was slack and beginning to flood. So we simply had to wait. Maybe put out a kedge anchor to keep the strong current from pushing us further onto the sand bar. Not big deal. One more lesson in patience.

While we waited, a boat full of good Samaritans motored by and offered assistance, which we accepted because it was getting dark. After some jockeying around and tense moments transferring lines and getting set up, sure enough the Samaritans were able to pull Flick’s nose into the incoming current and the deep part of the channel. Lines got dropped and as the Samaritans drove away we heard them gleefully shout, “Welcome to Florida.”

Never even got their names.

We made our way to the anchorage in the dark, successfully this time, and spent a pleasant night in the river, not far from the fort. The next morning was sunny, pleasant. Temperature hovering around sixty-five degrees. A new flood tide was on.

After bacon, eggs and the usual two cups of strong coffee, we successfully negotiated the river entrance, joined other boats headed south on the ICW and motored merrily along, passing Pellicer Flats to the west, with a narrow strip of land between us and the mighty Atlantic to the east.

The water was calm and flat, no wind, current setting to the north. We could have been sitting in our living room at home.

I was at the helm and Emily decided to go below to get our fuel checker stick. As she made her way back from the forward cabin she somehow got tripped up and fell. On the way down she managed to hit the companion way ladder and then the cabin sole (floor). And she hit it hard.

I heard the agonizing crash and a much greater agonizing moan.

Panicked, I yelled, “Are you hurt, are you hurt?” The ensuing silence was even more unsettling.

Finally she managed to say, in obvious pain, “I think so”.

I wheeled the boat around into the current and quickly went forward to deploy the anchor.

Down the companion way I went to find my poor wife laying on the cabin sole in a most unnerving position, in obvious pain.

I gently palpated areas of her body only to elicit more groans. It was obvious that she was hurt bad and sitting her up or getting her into a settee was out of the question. So I used pillows to make her as comfortable as possible and returned to the cockpit.

We were anchored right in the middle of the channel which is not a good idea generally, but I had no choice. A few boats went by and I got stares of indifference and, I imagined, contempt at my audacity at having anchored in the channel.

Just then Good Samaritan number II came by headed south, under sail in a twenty-seven foot boat, two souls aboard.

“Are you OK?” John (as his named turned out to be) yelled as they went by.

“No”, I replied, “My wife has fallen and she is really hurt.”

John dropped sail, wheeled his boat around and slowly approached Flicka.

As he came abreast, he asked “How can I help?”

I’m crying as a write this, remembering Emily’s agony and the look of genuine concern on John’s face, the look on the face of this perfect stranger.

“Help me weigh anchor”, I said.

With not a moment’s hesitation he directed his companion, now at the helm, to approach Flicka and, at the right moment, gingerly boarded her and went to the bow to pull in the anchor chain while I drove forward. After he had the anchor aboard he came back to the cockpit and we talked briefly. He and his companion are from Tennessee. He bought their boat, which had previously been sunk, for fifty dollars, and now they were headed south to points unknown. He expressed his sympathy and, as his mate gently guided their boat abreast Flicka, took his leave, nimbly stepping back to his boat. They wished us well as they drove away.

I turned Flicka south and revved her up to 2000 rpms. Fortunately we were not too far from the Palm Coast Marina. I called ahead and explained our situation and a very nice lady said she would call the EMT people and get us set up for docking.

So away we went with poor Emily laying on the floor of the boat in great pain and me freaking out at the helm intent on not running aground or into any other boats.

We arrived at Palm Coast with EMT already there. Five crew members lead by a US Marine boarded Flicka, assessed her condition, made here as comfortable as possible and then loaded her on to a gurney. They had her off the boat in fifteen minutes. I had the good sense to stay the hell out of the way. These guys were fabulous. Cheerful, friendly, competent and very focused. Emily could not have been in better hands.

They started to load her into a squad transport vehicle and I, the basket case, stood there like a deer in the headlight, wondering what to do next.

That’s when Meg showed up. “Hello my name is Meg. “I’m taking you to the hospital. No protests please. I insist”, she said emphatically. Meg talked all the way to the hospital, telling me about her cruising life, the local taxi service, the best restaurants, the best physicians, why she and her husband decided to stay in Palm Coast. She told me the best short cut to take from the hospital back to the marina, naming all the back roads in order. She told me about her family and named other residents in the marina, affectionately known as the Palm Coast Geriatric Marine Preserve.

Meg was simply great. She delivered me at the ER entrance of Flagler Hospital just as the EMTs were off loading Emily.

It was not long before we were together again in an EX exam room. Two nurses and a nurse practitioner attended to her within minutes. The NP ordered an x-ray. Not long after that, in walked Dr. Russell, the on call orthopedic surgeon, to inform us that Emily had broken her hip, actually the neck of the upper long leg bone, the femur.

But he had a plan. Get Emily stabilized, manage the pain, do an MRI to get the best picture of the fracture and schedule surgery to fix it. Which is what he did. Within the hour she was admitted to the hospital and moved upstairs. Surgery scheduled for the next day, November 29.

Sure enough on that day at around 1300 OR staff showed up to take her to pre-op. Away we went. Dr. Russel installed three screws to stabilize the joint and fracture and afterwards reported that everything had gone  well.

November 30 was a whirlwind of  activity involving visits from occupational, respiratory physical therapy, Dr. Russel, the chief hospitalist, a case manager, a representative from a potential rehab center and, of course, the business office.

The very next day, December 1, 2015, Flagler discharged Emily to the care of another Florida hospital, this time to Florida Hospital Oceanside, in Ormond Beach, where she shall remain for anywhere from two to four weeks, undergoing physical therapy.

After that, well we will just see.

This was a pretty trying and of course totally unexpected experience for us. Just a few days before we were motoring along in ten foot swells in the Atlantic. If such an accident as this had happened to either one of us then it would have gone to a whole other level of serious.

But it happened on a dead calm day practically in site of a marina. Pretty lucky I’d say.

During it all, Emily was attended to by no less that fifty competent, dedicated, cheerful, empathetic and pleasant professionals.


We shall forever be grateful for their help in our time of need.   

Saturday

An Uneventful Day

Tuesday, 11-24-2015, 0800, NE wind moderate, sunny and warm.

Left Walberg Creek and St. Catherines Island, entered the North Newport River and, after a short distance, Johnson Creek and the ICW. Crossed into Sapelo Sound past Blackbeard’s Island and entered Front River on the other side. Passed into Old Teakettle Creek then Doboy Sound, into North River and eventually Little Mud River, notorious for shallow, shoaling water.

We made it through, crossed Altamah Sound, passed into the Buttermilk River, then the Mackay River and came to anchor in Wallys Leg with three other boats.


Uneventful, pleasant day.  

Off Shore

Monday, 11-23-2015, 0630. NNE wind 10 knots. 60 degrees F. Ebb tide. Partly sunny.

Big day. Forecast is for NNE 12 – 17 knot wind in Port Royal Sound and near off shore, gusting to twenty. Perfect for a southerly run. On this strong ebb tide we should shoot out Port Royal guickly and run down to St. Catherines Sound, into Walburg Creek and be anchored before dark, a run of sixty-two miles.

What could go wrong?

We left Beaufort at sunrise, headed down the Beaufort River, rounded Spanish Point, and passed the entrance to Battery Creek and Parris Island to the west and Cane and Cat Islands to the east, blistering along at 7.0, sometimes 8.0 knots.

Passed Fort Freemont at Lands’ End to the east and Parris Island Spit to the west and spilled into Port Royal Sound doing 8.0 – 8.5 knots. Rounded Bay Point at the mouth of the inlet to enter the Atlantic, speed and wind picking up.

And that’s when we hit the wall.

A few words about passage making planning. These days there are all kind of on line apps linking one to the latest marine weather conditions and forecasts. Passsagemakng.com, PocketGrib.com. NOAAweather.com, Liveweather and Seatow just to name a few. One can safely sit at anchor the night before and plan a passage in the comfort of one’s cozy cabin while sipping a favorite libation and scratching one’s sand fly bites.

The National Weather Service (NWS), National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration (NOAA) and other agencies are on top of this weather stuff and generally get it pretty darn right.

There is a pattern to weather generally. High and low pressure systems move in and out, bringing changing winds, temperatures and reasonably predictable precipitation patterns. Current conditions are what is happening right now and forecasts are – well – forecasts, and subject to change at any moment.

Knowing current conditions is really helpful. In this modern era sea buoys are deployed at strategic locations and are equipped with the latest digital weather recorders. The mariner can go to Liveweather for example, click on a particular buoy and find out the current weather condition at that buoy at that precise time.

For today’s passage we are using the Grays Reef buoy, forty nautical miles SE of Savannah, GA at 31.40N, 80.87W. Today, as we motor joyfully along at 8.0 knots and begin to round Bay Point, Greys Reef was reporting wind was NNE 16 – 20, gusting to 23. Not bad if one is running down wind.

All systems go.

But Greys Reef is not where we are. We are headed SE and turning due E on a strong ebb tide, leaving an ocean inlet to merge into the mighty Atlantic. 

Running along at 8.0, sometimes 9.0 knots now with a twenty knot E wind right on our nose,  that wind transforms that strong ebb tide into standing waves, a wall of ten foot waves.

Rise up to the crest of one mighty monster then fall into the trough between it and the next one. 

Now we are in it. No turning back.

More fun, thrills and excitement than a bullet ride at the Staunton carnival in 1964 followed by a clandestine girlie show visit.

Needless to say that this was a rather trying experience. But slog on we did and after about an hour of bouncing along like a bucking bronco we turned SE then S so that the wind was on our stern, a little more comfortable although holding a downwind course, surfing along on ten foot waves, can be challenging.

We raced along just out of sight on land passed Hilton Head Island, Little Tybee, Wassaw and Ossabaw Sounds to make our entry into St. Catherines Sound and finally, finally into the tranquil and scenic Walburg Creek where we came to anchor at 31.668N, 81.18W in eight feet of calm water.

I looked at Emily and said, “What just happened?”


Early to bed. Good night all.

Thursday

Pametto Bugs and other Insects

Friday, 11-20-2015. 0800. Wind moderate NE. Sunny. Fifty-eight degrees F. A beautiful day.

We hauled into the Beaufort Downtown Marina, where we intend to stay for the next two days. Rented a car and drove over to St. Helena Island where we discovered the Penn Center, a museum documenting the history and culture of the Gullah or Geechee people, formerly enslaved African-Americans whose descendants still live here.

This ‘Lowcountry’ as it is called, is a broad coastal plain characterized by extensive wetlands and a number of ‘Sea Islands’, St Helena being one. Today’s Gullah people, many  of whom speak a kind of English based creole referred to as "Sea Island Creole”, keep their unique West and Central African cultures alive through their story telling, rice-based cuisine, music, folk beliefs, crafts, farming, and fishing traditions.

A few local Gullah women make traditional, intricately woven ‘sweet grass’ baskets, out of – well – sweet grass. These baskets are acclaimed far and wide for their quality and authenticity.


A local Gullah Lady Shows Emily Sweet Grass Baskets



And they sure know how to make gumbo.

The Penn Center is also the site of the Penn School, founded in 1861, one of the first schools in America built to educate former slaves.

After our Penn Center visit we did a little tour of Beaufort’s splendid historic district.

On Saturday we drove down to Savannah, Georgia for a few had to find marine supplies, which we did not find.

Savannah, the capitol and oldest city in Georgia was founded in 1733. Walk on cobblestone streets adorned with stately, spreading live oak trees garlanded with Spanish moss, guarding old southern homes.

Juliette Low was born here, founder of the Girl Scouts of America, as was another famous lady, Ann Noble Sims, born in 1923, destined to be the mother of my beautiful bride, Emily. It’s the home of the Georgia Historical Society, the oldest continuously operated historical society in the south. Throwing that tidbit in for McKelden, Emily’s brother, president of the New York Genealogical Society.

The Savannah waterfront has magnificent old warehouses converted into all manner of restaurants, shops and other businesses just itching to get at your pocketbook. Hugh container ships glide by within fifty yards of the town docks.

On Saturday night we kept a dinner date with our friend and my VMI Brother Rat Scott Kinsey.  Scott lives with his wife Laura and their dogs, Doc and Mac, two horses, lots of alligators, water moccasins, sand flies and the occasional coral snake, just outside the crossroads town of Sheldon, SC on the Pocataligo River, in a wonderful home he designed and built. After VMI he migrated to the south, became a luthier, fine bass player, song writer and all around good guy.

He prepared a scrumptious dinner of French beef stew, scalloped potatoes, salad and turtle chocolates.  Afterwards he entertained us with stories about his friend, the late great John Hartford, a very fine old timey musician. Then he broke out his own late nineteenth century German fiddle and regaled us with old timey toons. We had a delightful time. Upon our leaving he supplied us with a loaf of just baked (by him) bread and a half dozen designer hot dogs from Nebraska.


Scott's Fancy Fiddle


Dinner Yum  Yum


Scott Sawing Away

Back to Beaufort with full bellies and nighty night we went.

Sunday morning we returned the car and left the marina dock only to anchor out in the Beaufort channel in preparation for a long day tomorrow, intending an off shore run to St. Catherines Island.

Before we leave the great state of South Carolina I would be remiss if I did not mention South Carolina’s state insect, the palmetto bug, otherwise known as a big, fat cockroach. The South Carolina palmetto bug is the American cockroach (Periplaneta americana), not to be confused with the Florida palmetto bug (Eurycotis floridana). Palmetto bug is a rather benign name for this creature but a palmetto bug by any other name is still a big fat cockroach.

Cockroaches are not native to America. They were introduced from Africa in the sixteenth century and have adapted quite well here. The palmetto bug population that thrives in South Carolina now was brought in by Billy Martin, while he was vacationing in 1998, after having been fired by the New York Yankees for the fifth time.

Cockroaches are not the least bit harmful. South Carolinians know this and they have developed an intimate and custodial relation with them. Palmetto bugs don’t bit or sting although some have accused them of emitting noxious odors from time to time. But, hey, we all do that.

Everything in South Carolina is named after the palmetto bug. Businesses, sports teams, churches; Palmetto Paint and Supply, Palmetto Body Piercing and Tattoo, Palmetto Motors, Palmetto Pizza, Palmetto Medical Services, Palmetto Plumbing Supply, Palmetto Unitarian Church, Palmetto First Bank, Palmetto Exterminators (licensed to exterminate any bug except the palmetto bug). 

The University of South Carolina’s football team, now the Gamecocks, used to be called the University of South Carolina Palmetto Bugs until Steve Spurrier emigrated from Florida and put an end to that. 

Palmetto bugs are cherished as pets in South Carolina and all homes have little palmetto bug condos. All hotels, motels and B&Bs in South Carolina are well endowed with palmetto bugs who cheerfully visit overnight guests by dropping from the ceiling into bed for a late night chat.

It is against state law in South Carolina to harm or harass a palmetto bug.

The popular bee hive hairdo, or the B-52, was developed in the 1960s in South Carolina so women could not be without their precious pet palmetto bugs when out and about on the town.  While South Carolina beauties are having coffee and apple fritters at the local Starbucks their pet palmettos can race out from their hive, descend their owners arm and grab a quick crumb snack, delighting fellow diners to no end. 

The middle name of all women in South Carolina is Palmetto; Savannah Palmetto Coppersmith, Emma Palmetto Bamberg, Olivia Palmetto Beaufort, Emmylou Palmetto Calhoun, Jesse Pearl Palmetto Bug Pickens.

There is even a state sponsored and wildly popular Palmetto Bug Precision Swim Team. They are very good, what with six legs and water wings with which to execute exact and coordinated moves. The Palmetto Bug Paladins Chorus Line woos audiences all over. Those six bare legs do it every time.

The palmetto bug is held in the highest esteem by South Carolinians but a close second is the sand flea, sometimes referred to as the sand gnat, no-see-um, granny nipper, chitra, punkie, or punky, the darling of anyone attempting to enjoy the great outdoors. But a sand flea by any other name is still a sand flea.

And here is where I draw the line on this South Carolina pet insect obsession. First of all they fly like all insects, and swarm, and being no-see-ums, you can’t see um. Secondly they bite and suck blood from their mammalian, reptilian and avian victims. Oddly enough it’s only the female flies that bite. Nothing worse than a swarm of angry, biting females!

And boy do those bites itch. I don’t get how such a tiny creature can inflict such an annoying bite, but they sure do. Furthermore why would any loving deity create this coastal paradise then throw in sand flies. Water moccasins, copperheads, an occasional coral snake, alligators, black widow and brown recluse spiders, sure, I get that, but why sand flies.

Sand fleas make me forget any notion of living in harmony with nature. I strongly urge the federal government step in, throw a big plastic bag over the entire state and douse it with DDT until every sand flea has met his maker and do it before we come back through next May. Of course the feds will have to gather all the palmetto bugs into safe houses during the operation.

Good night to all. I must spend some time scratching my sand flea bites before bedtime.



Tomorrow the mighty Atlantic

Anchored in Beaufort Harbor

Thursday, 11-19-2015. 0900 Wind NE at 10 knots. Temp 58 degrees F. 

Intermittent rain all last night. Raining this morning and rain forecast for today. Staying on hook waiting for better weather. Nursing the damned mystery leak we have not found, sharing bowl emptying duty, reading, napping, conversing, and watching life unfold on the water.

The main attraction is a fleet of tug boats, tenders and barges loaded with thousand foot sections of thirty-six inch polypropylene pipe, cranes, massive pumps and all manner of other necessary equipment, gather just to the south of us, a full blown dredging operation waiting for the tide change. Listening to their boat to boat communications as they coordinated the movement of this ‘floating city’ was like listening to a NASA launch. They finally got under way, ponderously motored by us within two hundred feet and passed through Lady Island Bridge on their way to Wilmington, NC. I still can’t believe they didn’t hit something.

Tomorrow we dock at the Downtown Marina in beautiful and historic downtown Beaufort, SC.

Good night all. 


Saturday

Tides

Wednesday, 11-18-2015. 0830 Winds light NE Temp 60 degrees F.

Anchored on a low stand ebb tide in Church Creek with five other boats.

Everybody gets the basic idea about tides I suspect.  Tides are the daily rise and fall of sea level and are the result of interplay between the gravitational forces of the Earth, Moon and Sun and the rotation of the Earth. That interplay results in a ‘bulge’ of water that moves around the planet to create the tides. Where these celestial bodies are in relation to one another at any given moment in the yearly and monthly cycle determines the tides in a given location. Local geography generally determines tide height and current velocity.

An ebb tide (falling tide) is occurring when water is moving away from a land body towards the ocean. A low stand tide (low tide) is when the lowest water height is reached at a particular location. Ebb flow does not necessarily stop at low tide.

In a future blog entry, on which I’m sure you just can’t wait, I’m ‘gonna splain’ in great detail just how complicated tidal flow is and why its consideration is important for safe navigation.

Here is a little teaser.

In Virginia on the Chesapeake Bay the average tidal range is on the order of a few feet. On the same day, where we are now on Church Creek, in South Carolina, the Palmetto State (I’ll get to that later), the tide range is on the order of six feet. Just south of here in the Beaufort area its eight feet. Quite a difference. Why is that? To make a very long story very short, it has to do with geography. The bay is large and its inlet from the ocean is broad compared to Port Royal Sound and its relatively narrow inlet, which feeds the Beaufort River, where we are now. The same very big bulge of Atlantic Ocean water is hitting both those locations, but the Bay simply has more room, more volume, in which to fit the incoming water. Currents at the broad Bay entrance are modest for the same reason. At the narrow Port Royal Sound Inlet the incoming current is stronger, because water flows faster through a smaller pipe.

From Church Creek we crossed the North Edisto River, the Dawho River, the South Edisto River, passed through Fenwick Cut to the Ashepoo River then through the Ashepoo G Coosaw Cutoff to the Coosaw River into Brickyard Creek and finally into the Beaufort River, where we rounded the peninsula, passed through the Ladys Island Bridge and came to rest on anchor in the Beaufort Harbor at 1400.

Along the way, it starts to rain.

More boring geography stuff? Partially to illustrate another point (besides tide considerations), that being that South Carolina has a remarkably large and complex array of coastal rivers meandering here and there through ecologically productive, tidal saltwater wetlands, brimming with wildlife; birds, fish, shellfish, marine mammals, crabs, worms and insects (yes those too) and a fascinating assortment of wetland plants. In fact South Carolina has more salt water wetland acreage than any Atlantic Coastal state. These areas are a national treasure in my view. It’s fortunate that average tides are so high here. High tides in low coastal areas make for extensive salt water marches that must be infinitely harder to develop.

Good news.

So there.

Tomorrow we hope to tie up in the Beaufort City Marina where we are going to hunker down for a couple of days.

Good night.

Friday

Charleston

Tuesday, 11-17-2015 0830. Partially cloudy. Wind E at 12 – 15 knots. Strong on our starboard quarter. Temp 62 degrees F

We are tied up in the Charleston Maritime Center Marina on the east side of the Charleston Peninsula, having come in early yesterday at 0830.

We are here to visit a second cousin of mine and see some of this beautiful and historic city. A free trolley hits most of the old town and historic parts of the city so away we went to do just that.

We visited the Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church, which unfortunately for us was closed for renovations.


Emanuel African Methodist Episcopal Church



Click on the picture and it will enlarge so you can read the text 

After that we walked through the historic district, went to a Harris Teeter for supplies, bought some post cards and returned to Flicka.

Exciting people we are!

Passed a pleasant night tied to the dock with lots of rocking and rolling due to that strong quartering E wind.

At noon today, after a bit of a harrowing experience getting off the dock, we motored out into the Charleston Harbor, rounded the peninsula, entered the ICW, passed through to Wappo Swing Bridge and Elliott Cut to spill into the Stono River Where we came to anchor in Church Creek for the night.

A short day. 

And a screwed up entry to the blog, which I'm fixing now. 

Namaste

A few Charleston pics.