This is Mile 0 of the ICW Norfolk Area.
We left our anchorage at 08:30 headed south past lots of commercial docking and industrial activity and sailed under the Belt Line RR and Norfolk and Western RR Lift Bridges (see pic); then under the Gilmerton Bridge, which is a call bridge; that is, you have to call the bridge attendant and ask permission to pass – which is a big deal because he has to stop traffic and open (lift) a hugh bridge span. There is a kind of culture surrounding bridge masters and definitely a protocol for interacting. It pays to be very cordial and present a respectful tone in your “ask to pass” or it just might not happen, I’m told.
So at mile 5, under the Gilmerton Bridge we went, then under
Route 64 high span bridge and on to the entrance to the Great Dismal Swamp Canal
Route of the ICW – a scenic and less traveled (by commercial vessels) alternative
to the eastern Virginia Cut route.
These
canals travel southward more or less on parallel courses and rejoin in
Albemarle Sound. The Dismal Swamp Canal
route is 22 miles long, straight as an arrow for much of that distance,
anywhere from 40 – 75 feet wide (which ain’t much) and averages 9 foot depth.
Not much room for passing vessels. This time of the year most boats are sail or
motor trawlers headed south.
We entered the canal at the Deep Creek Canal Lock. The US
Corp of Engineers operates the canals, ditches and locks associated with Lake
Drummond, one of the few naturally occurring lakes in Virginia. The Corps main
responsibility in managing this complex is to maintain adequate water level in Drummond which in turn establishes the local water table which makes it possible
(at least partially) for so many people to live in the Hampton, Chesapeake and Norfolk
areas. The locks are a primary tool for regulating water level in the lake. Boaters
are just along for the ride.
There was a “lock master” who directed traffic (four boats
entering the lock together) and served as tour guide, historian and general
duty as a funny man. We entered the lock where the water level was eight feet
below water level in the actual canal ahead. Once we were securely tied to the
sides of the lock, big gates closed behind us and the master flooded the lock
by opening gates in front. It took about 10 minutes for the water level in the
lock to rise to canal level, Open go the gates and down the canal we went in
perfectly fine weather. Our very first lock negotiation. Thrilling.
When we entered the Deep Creek Canal Lock this morning
docked there was a very nice CSY 44 (Caribbean Sailing Yacht) named Foot Loose.
Foot Looses’ captain was Vince Trovato, a spry gentleman probably in his mid-seventies.
He told us he had done the ICW seventy times in his career as a US Coast Guard
Ocean Master. He gave us a copy of his own guide to the Atlantic Waterway and some
great advice. I’d say he knows what he is talking about.
Tomorrow we are headed to Elizabeth City, NC on the Pasquotank
River.
Stay tuned for more exciting adventures.
Steve and Emily
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