November 12, 13, 14 and 15

I have to get this thing a little better organized. Far behind. Cold weather has created an incentive to get south fast so we have been pushing hard to make time. I am pretty exhausted by the time we get to a dock or anchorage. Must do better.

For this entry I will combine a few days to get caught up.

November 12, 2014 – 7:30AM - We left our anchorage at the north entrance of the Alligator River Pungo River Canal (Mile 104.8 ICW). Marine weather reports promised partly sunny skies by 9:00AM. That never happened.  We traveled the length of the canal (about 23 miles) under cold grey skies but, fortunately no rain. Leaving the canal we traveled down the Pungo River to Belhaven, NC at the junction of Pantego Creek and the Pungo where we hauled into the Forest River Marina and met Henry, the dock master who set us up with a nice slip. Emily was able to contact an old friend with whom she attended St. Anne’s Belfield School. Suzanne picked us up and, along with her sister Jan, carried our sorry butts to Food Lion for supplies. To top it off she took us out for dinner at a very fine Belhaven restaurant where we met yet another sister, Carol. The dinner was fabulous. Good on her! Back to Flicka at 9:00PM and straight to bed.

 

November 13, 2014 – A very fine day indeed – except for the weather. Rain predicted and did come in the afternoon in a big way. We rented a car and drove to Greenville, NC to see my very dear friend Paul Rogers, who has spent the last 35 years of his life in a wheel chair, a victim of multiple sclerosis. Paul was a side kick of Sid Painter, dead too young from cancer many years ago. Enterprise Car Rental sent a driver from Washington, NC to pick us up, one G. B. Haddock, an eighty-eight year young man who, with a little prompting, told us a little about his life as a tobacco farmer in the 30s and 40s – complete with mule drawn equipment and hand harvested corn. We had a fabulous, but too short visit with Paul, who is super inspiring, having never let MS beat him completely down. For years he has gone to the local hospital twice weekly to volunteer in the heart center. I’m a better man for being his friend. G. B. delivered us back to Belhaven with more stories. The rain came cold and fast. Tomorrow’s weather report was not good. Cold, cold, but at least clearing skies by 9:00AM.

 

November 14, 2014 – 7:39AM – Left Belhaven (Forest River Marina) under leaden but clearing skies – at least no rain – but very cold. Turning into the Pungo River. The clearing skies stopped happening. Bundled up for sure. Winds northerly 10-15. 42 degrees. Very cold on the water. We proceeded down the Pungo to its junction with the Pamlico. Crossed the Pamlico and entered Goose Creek and the Hoboken Canal. Passed under the Hoboken Bridge at 11:00AM. Passed through canal, into the Bay River and then the Neuse River, notorious for contrary winds and currents.  Winds picked up to 15-20 but still out of the north which put it on our starboard quarter. Great time to let out the jib (headsail) and run downwind (with the wind). Great in theory, but putting it into practice takes having your shit together, which on this particular occasion we most emphatically did not! Ended up with the jib sheets (control lines) fouled and the boat pretty much out of control. I had to go forward in not so ideal conditions to untangle the lines. Not good in a building wind. But we prevailed and lived long enough to make it to the very cool town of Oriental, NC – sailing capital of North Carolina. WE were very lucky indeed to find a free dock in downtown Oriental right across from a coffee shop where I had the worst cup of coffee I have ever had. Walked Oriental – a good time was had by all. A 47 mile day on the ICW!

 

November 15, 2014 – 8:30AM – Sunny and bright but very cold – 38 degrees, Winds light, northerly. Departed Oriental and crossed the Neuse River to Adams Creek and entered yet another canal, the Adams Creek Canal. A favorable current pushed us along at 6.5 – 7.0 knots. Very good time. Entered the Newport River and at buoys 32 and 33 sighted our very first dolphins. Maybe 20 or so. Such spectacular creatures. Motored past approaches to Beaufort, NC and continued down ICW between Atlantic Beach and Morehead City. At this point the ICW essentially becomes a narrow and not so deep channel running continuously north - south with the mainland to the west and a series of barrier islands to the east, interrupted by various inlets and outlets to the Atlantic Ocean. There are extensive saltwater marches dominated with salt marsh cord grass and salt march hay, breeding grounds for all manner of creatures and small islands, many created with spoils from dredging operations.

We continued past Beaufort and Morehead City south bound trying our best not to run aground – which thank goodness we did not. Other boats were not so lucky. It was sunny but cold and onward we mushed until finally we arrived at Swansboro, NC. One of our many waterway guides mentioned a particular restaurant – the Saltwater Grill that had one free docking spot for one boat available for any boater who would dine there. I call to enquire and sure enough, their one slip was open so in we went. Mike actually met us at the dock and helped us get secure. Pretty damn cool! So we rested, had a drink and dined later. The she crab soup was excellent. So here we are now, aboard Flicka with our Little Buddy propane heater cranking out the BTUs. Tomorrow onward to Wrightsville Beach and an off shore run to Charleston, SC.

Good night all.

Steve and Emily