Thursday

Day #74 – 76, August 31 to September 2.


Margo, Bob and Captain Emily

Up and gone today to Windsor, CO to visit with Emily’s friends Bob and Margot Iwanchuk, professional meteorologists who came to this part of the country from Bedford, MA. Margot’s brother Duncan was Emily’s beau in bygone days. Duncan and Emily new each other in Boston in the late seventies. The both had the unfortunate experience of having severe strokes in their early thirties.


Bob was a student at Kent State University during the late sixties and early seventies when the horrific shootings on May 4, 1970 of unarmed college students by members of the Ohio National Guard occurred during a mass protest of the Vietnam War. Twenty-eight guardsmen killed four students and wounded nine others. After this tragedy four million students staged strikes across America and hundreds of universities, colleges, and high schools closed. People rose up in opposition to war.

I was a first classman (senior) at the Virginia Military Institute in 1970. What a time to be a student at a military college. While I was learning to fire a 50-caliber machine gun, drive tanks and throw a hand grenade my cohorts at the University of Virginia were protesting the war. These were tumultuous times in America, a contentious, unsettling and sad. Where were you on May 4, 1970?

The sixties were war years, like so many before and after.  During the Vietnam War era, every evening American news anchors reported the number of American soldiers killed that day, the body count. In the end, over fifty-eight thousand American soldiers died. Rarely mentioned were the 1.1 million Viet Cong and North Vietnam soldiers or the 250,000 South Vietnam soldiers or the two million civilians who died in the conflict, or the 4,900 dead from Thailand, South Korea, Australia and New Zealand.  

Nineteen hundred and sixty-eight was a particularly eventful year.

In February, Nguyen Ngoc Loan, a National Police Chief, executed Viet Cong officer Nguyễn Văn Lém.  War journalist Eddie Adams photographed the execution. The picture made its way around the world and help sway US public opinion against the war. Adams received a Pulitzer prize for his reporting. People around the world condemned Loan for his brutality. The underlying story, one that did not get much attention, was that Lem was responsible for killing the wife and six children of a South Vietnamese military officer. A few months after the execution picture, a Viet Cong soldier seriously wounded Loan in a fire fight and a field surgeon had to amputate Loan’s leg. In 1975, during the fall of Saigon Loan fled South Vietnam. He moved to the United States and opened a pizza restaurant in the Washington, D.C. suburb of Burke, VA where he died in 1998. You cannot make this stuff up.

In March the My Lia massacre happened. United States Army soldiers killed somewhere between 347 and 504 unarmed Vietnamese civilians in South Vietnam. The victims included men, women, children and infants. Some of the women were gang raped and their bodies mutilated. Three US serviceman tried to halt the massacre and rescue hiding civilians. Some US Congressman denounced these heroes as traitors. It was only after thirty years that our government recognized and decorated them for shielding noncombatants from harm in a war zone.

In April James Earl Ray assassinated Martin Luther King Jr.in a hotel in Memphis Tennessee.

In June, Sirhan Sirhan assassinated US presidential candidate Robert F Kennedy at a hotel in Los Angeles.

In August Private First Class James Anderson Jr. became the first African-American marine to receive the Medal of Honor for heroism while serving in Vietnam. In a fire fight in December 1966, Private Anderson covered a grenade with his body to save his teammates. The grenade exploded and killed him. He was twenty years old. If that doesn’t make you cry nothing will.

In December the Apollo 8 spacecraft entered orbit around the moon and astronauts Frank Borman, Jim Lovell and William Anders become the first human beings to ever see the far side of the moon.

Margo and Bob were fabulous hosts. They fed us well. The next morning, after a scrumptious breakfast, we drove to Denver to visit another old friend and have the van serviced. The brilliant and talented graphic artist Wendy Ray picked us up at the car dealership and whisked us away to her condominium, where we spent the afternoon visiting, eating Colorado peaches and admiring her art.

The Insuppressible Wendy Ray Holding a Picture of the Equally Insuppressible Lester Bowers 


Samples of Wendy's Art

Wendy drove us back to the dealership and after goodbyes we drove to Colorado Springs and checked in at the Garden of the Gods Motel and Cottage. Some place. A perfect Tom Waites hang out. All manner of colorful people coming and going. Had dinner that night at Rudy’s Country Store and Barbecue Hang Out. Perfect.

The next morning, we drove to the Air Force Academy’s Falcon Stadium to see a football game between the Keydets of the Virginia military Institute (VMI), my alma mater, and a far superior Academy team.

 VMI, a state supported military college, the oldest such institution in the United States, has a student population of about seventeen hundred. The Air Force Academy, a federal service academy, about forty-five hundred. The other service academies are the United States Military Academy (West Point), the Naval Academy, the Coast Guard Academy and the Merchant Marine Academy. Both VMI and the service academies offer rigorous military programs. Some say that living conditions at VMI are more austere that those at the service academies.  That’s code for, ‘we are tougher that those guys’. Cadets at both VMI and the service academies must participate in the Reserve Officers Training Corps (ROTC) of the of the US Armed Forces, but VMI gives cadets the flexibility of pursuing civilian endeavors or accepting an officers commission in any of the active or reserve components of any of the U.S. military branches. Cadets from the service academies attend their respective schools free and, barring extenuating circumstances, must enter a chosen military service branch for a given length of time.


The Virginia Military Institute is the only school in the nation to have had its students, while actively attending the school, sent into battle. On 15 May 1864, two hundred and forty-seven members of the VMI Corps of Cadets fought as an independent unit at the battle of New Market during the Civil War. General John C Breckinridge, the commanding Southern general, held the cadets in reserve until Union troops broke through Confederate lines. Breckinridge sent the VMI unit into battle and, as history tells the story, asked for God’s forgiveness for doing so. In a matter of minutes, the unit suffered fifty-five casualties with ten cadets killed. But the cadets pushed forward, capturing a Union artillery emplacement. The Union troops withdrew, and Confederate troops held the line.  A heavy price indeed to pay for holding a line in a field in the Shenandoah Valley. These remarkable VMI cadets were about the same age as Private First Class James Anderson Jr. who covered that grenade with his body to save his teammates in Vietnam. Six of the ten fallen cadets are buried on VMI grounds behind the statue "Virginia Mourning Her Dead" by sculptor Moses Ezekiel, a VMI graduate who was also wounded in the Battle of New Market.

VMI has a simple and straightforward honor system. It says, “A Cadet will not lie, cheat, steal, nor tolerate those who do.” The system does not recognize degrees of honor. The sanction for any breach of honor is dismissal. Leaving aside the impracticality of implementing such an austere code in day to day living outside an institution like VMI, wouldn’t it be nice if we did not tolerate politicians who lie to us? That would be an effective way to get rid of most of them. Just dismiss the charlatans!

I was a cadet at VMI in 1968 when the Institute admitted the first African-American cadets. In 1997 VMI finally admitted women, shamefully the last military college in America to do so. VMI resisted the whole way. It took a 7 to 1 decision in the US Supreme Court that found that it was unconstitutional for a school supported by public funds to exclude women to finally compel VMI to admit women. Following the ruling, VMI contemplated going private to avoid the ruling. State and federal dollars drive much of VMI’s military programs so when cooler heads ran the numbers and concluded that road would be a dead-end, VMI finally relented and admitted women, who of course have gone on to excel at VMI, in the armed forces and in civilian life. When money talks nobody walks.

VMI is a southern school through and through. Many of its heroes are Confederate generals. To this very day when fourth classmen, ‘rats’, exit barracks through Jackson arch they must salute a statute of Stonewall Jackson just outside of the arch. This is a time in America when many people are contemplating the allegiance we have to these southern Civil War heroes or at least to monuments to them throughout the South. Just across the Blue Ridge Mountains in Charlottesville the city council voted recently to remove a statue of Robert E Lee from a  public park, formerly called Lee Park, now renamed Emancipation Park. Is VMI next?

Schools need big money to fund their athletic endeavors. This game between fine young men on both sides illustrates the influence of money on scheduling in college sports. On this day the VMI football team were severely overmatched. They gave it their all but predictably came up on the losing end. However, the school got a substantial chunk of money just for showing up. Final score of today’s match? Air Force Academy – 62, VMI – 0. It might have been a money maker for VMI but I’m not so sure about a morale builder for the brave VMI players. The VMI team did not win a single game this season. One must wonder whether opening against a fare superior team and getting shellacked in this way contributed to that losing season. Big programs like the Air Force Academy get big, fast, talented athletes. VMI athletes have big hearts but not comparable talent, size and speed.

Football games at Falcon Stadium are festive events, complete with jet flyovers, marching bands, precision parachutists, and an appearance by the team’s mascot, yes, a falcon. Late in the first half medical personnel took the starting VMI quarterback off the field in a gurney after an opposing defender administered a violent hit.

VMI Team Praying that Nobody Gets Killed



Precision Parachutists

That's a Big Flag

The Air Force Falcon

Valiant VMI Quarterback Leaving After Violent Hit


We couldn’t take any more of the slaughter so we left the game at halftime and drove west on route 24, skirting Pike’s Peak, passing through Woodland Park, Divide, Florissant, Glentivar, Hartsel and finally to Antero Junction, where we crossed Trout Creek Pass at 9,487 feet and went north on route 285 to National Forest road 433 where we entered the Pike National Forest for a little sweet dispersed camping, with eight spectacular fourteen-thousand foot and many lesser, but not much lesser, mountain peaks in the Sawatch Range of Colorado’s Central San Wan Mountains just to the west. 

Tomorrow Salida, CO

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